Simon Ryan of Escapement24 has successfully brought back the Monceau brand with the Monceau Model 01. This timepiece blends historical elements with contemporary trends, presenting an appealing option for watch enthusiasts. The design choices, particularly the angular case and the wave-like dial, contribute to its unique character. While the use of a hand-wound movement in a sport-oriented watch might seem unconventional, it adds to the watch's charm and authenticity, honoring the brand's heritage. This review delves into the Model 01's intricate details, from its robust build to its subtle aesthetic nuances, examining how these features come together to create a distinctive and competitive offering in today's watch market.
The Monceau Model 01's design immediately captures attention with its robust stainless steel construction, which measures 39mm in diameter, 44.7mm from lug to lug, and a slender 10.2mm in thickness. These dimensions ensure a comfortable fit on various wrist sizes, including the reviewer's 7-inch wrist. A significant design element is the box sapphire crystal, extending 1.8mm above the case, which imparts a vintage feel. This contrasts sharply with the case's modern, angular aesthetic, where bevels and precise lines dominate, with the bezel being the only component exhibiting a subtle curve. The watch also boasts an impressive 200 meters of water resistance, complemented by a screw-down crown, making it suitable for diverse activities.
The craftsmanship of the case is evident in the meticulous blend of polished and brushed finishes. The sharp transitions between these contrasting textures, extending to the polished internal bevels of the bracelet links, showcase a high level of attention to detail. The bracelet, which appears integrated, actually features quick-release tabs, allowing for easy interchangeability with 20mm straps. The review sample came with a white strap, which was deemed unsuitable due to its mismatch with the watch's substantial lugs. The bracelet tapers elegantly toward a folding clasp equipped with a push-button micro-adjust mechanism, providing convenient on-the-fly sizing.
The Model 01's dial introduces an intriguing contoured pattern, described by Monceau as evoking "wind and water" designs. This effect resembles either gentle waves or desert dunes, with the latter being a more prominent visual association for the reviewer. Similar patterns have been observed in other notable timepieces like the Christopher Ward Dune Aeolian and the Czapek Antarctique Lanikai, which have generally received positive reception. Available in black, white, gray, and red, the red and gray variants are particularly effective in accentuating the dial's contours, potentially overshadowing the more subdued black and white options. A color-matched date wheel seamlessly integrates with the dial at the 6 o'clock position, though the reviewer suggests a flush bevel for the date window could further enhance its appearance.
Instead of traditional applied metal numerals, Monceau employs solid Super-LumiNova blocks for hour markers, harmonizing with the dauphine hands. A noted challenge with this approach is ensuring the luminosity of the hands matches that of the hour markers. While the Model 01's hands feature conventional lume slivers, leading to a noticeable disparity in brightness compared to the hour blocks, the watch still provides sufficient legibility in complete darkness, albeit less so in low-light conditions. This minor discrepancy, however, does not detract significantly from the overall functionality and aesthetic appeal of the watch's luminous elements.
The most unexpected feature of the Monceau Model 01 is its movement. The reviewer initially assumed it housed an automatic movement, a common expectation for sporty watches. However, it is powered by a hand-wound Swiss Sellita SW210-1, a deliberate choice by Monceau to honor the original timepieces from over half a century ago, while also contributing to the watch's slim profile. This movement, visible through a sapphire caseback, is adorned with elegant striping and the Monceau lettermark. It offers a 42-hour power reserve and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with factory regulation to -/+7 seconds per day. While a hand-wound movement might be a deviation for some, its quality and the aesthetic benefits it offers make it a justifiable choice.
The Monceau Model 01 enters a competitive market segment for integrated-style watches, particularly those priced around or below £1,000. While many competitors, such as Bulova, Tissot, Citizen, Maen, and Venezianico, offer automatic movements, the Monceau's distinctive case and dial design provide a strong counterpoint to its hand-wound mechanism. Enthusiasts are increasingly appreciating hand-wound watches, recognizing their heritage and the connection they foster with the timepiece. The Monceau Model 01 is available for £829 GBP, representing a compelling option for those seeking a stylish, well-crafted watch with a unique blend of vintage and modern appeal.